We New Zealanders believe that in comparison with our unruly landscape Europe is a flat table top. Not so; Europe is an unforgiving place but the Autobahn network has recently tamed the land. If Switzerland or the Black Forest was civilized, in spite of the monumetal landscape and freezing alpine climate, it could happen in New Zealand.
We were somewhere in the wilderness west of Mannheim, north of Karlsruhe, and south of Frankfurt. The weather was dull and overcast and as we drove into the Hinterweidenthal the rain laced through the limestone bluffs and the road wound through tunnel after tunnel, bored into giant mountains of soft rock.
During the atmospheric trip, I pondered on how tough and isolated life here must have been before the industrialists made these roads to get to the minerals. Coke, coal, lead silver and gold. You don’t think of Germany as wild but in corners of it like this where the forest is thick, the mountains high and the valleys deep it must have been basically impassable for six months of the year. Trapped travelers debasing themselves by eating one-and-other trapped in some alpine cave while the weather roared outside.
We were heading for Kurstadt Dahn: This was a place where retirees came to breath the fresh alpine air and indulge in Kaffee und Kuchen without having to find a car park first. Peter the driver turned back to me from the driver seat while we were driving along a perfectly straight causeway bored into the side of a valley:
“You know the Neanderthal Man? The guy they found petrified into the rock? Well the valley over from the Neanderthal is the Hinterweidenthal.”
“What are you talking about?” I asked.
“Neander-Thal. Thal equals Tal equals valley! They found the Neanderthal Man in the Neander Valley. We are going to a bordering valley.”
“You don’t say.” This impressed me. I was in an ancient place where people had existed ever since they came north from the mother continent and turned white. When I get to the Hinterweiderthal I will look at the inhabitants and imagine them as roaming tribes of stone age people.
On arriving we found Kurstadt Dahn battered by rain and sleet, a hellish sunset in the west illuminating the hotel. This was where we were playing. I didn’t really know what the deal was with this gig. All I knew was that it was 220 km away from Freiburg and that I was getting paid €200 for the afternoon. Peter had assured me that it would all be over by nine and we should be home by elevenish. There was a buffet dinner put on for us and the music was super easy. I heard something about choirs and thought that we were probably going to play another mass or something.
We walked inside through an elegant and functional restaurant where old people looked over their coffee and cake at us quizzically. We were ushered through a back door into a large lobby with red carpet and gold hand rails.
“A wonderful good evening to you all!” A man with an enormous stomach but erect and athletic had saluted us and was walking towards us grinning. This man’s face was the colour of a radish and I was afraid to be near him because I had the expectation that his head would explode with the unstoppable blood pressure within and soil my smoking jacket. “I am Dietrich and I am the harpsicordist and musical director of the evening. Be welcome! Please come into your dressing room. There is a buffet in there and I trust you will find everything you might want.”
The dressing room was a small room, just large enough for the quartet to unpack and warm up. There was a table with grapes, a coffee heater, Sprüdel, Butterbrezeln and a bowl of christmas treats. Typical Christmas affair, although it was still only middle November.
“Ah it is so sweet how our hosts are so thankful that we are here!” Katharina the 2nd violinist glowed with satisfaction.
“It is so nice in the provincial valleys. Really nice people.”Opined Henrike the viola player.
“Yeah. I have been coming to this gig for years and the choir is kind of a family. You’ll see.” That was Peter the 1st violinist.
The door banged open and Dietrich came in. “Where are you guys? You should be on stage now!” He walked off muttering. “What am I paying you guys for? Jesus!”
He went out into the hall and there was only the roar of the chattering choir left. Bemused, we walkedwith our instruments to the stage.
We were dressed in standard concert blacks, the two women with high heels and plain black skirts and we men with black trowsers and shirt. We started playing almost instantly. Henrike was nearest to me. She had a really quick head which could hear all of the bizarre demands for bar numbers. She would whisper while I was fumbling with the music, completely lost as to which piece we were playing.
Dietrich had a habit of screaming “RUUHE!!” at the top of his lungs to quieten the choir. It frightened me terribly but the choir hardly noticed him. It must have been a regular event that he would resort to screaming at the top of his lungs because the effect had declined.
In this business you have a lot of time to look around and take stock of your surroundings and colleagues. It is normal for musicians to zone out and stare into space, only to realize they are staring at someone at the other end of the ensemble who are staring straight back. These moments of eye contact in a crowded room are special. Because of where you are sitting and personal preference your eyes will always come to rest on the same person. Through a rehearsal week you build up a special rapport with that person and every time your eyes meet it is like you are sharing some inner joke. It is extremely instinctive who you choose to look at; It is usually a woman who is beautiful in an unorthadox way or someone who fascinates you visually in some way-someone non-threatening. The beauty is how it is reciprocal; You will never keep looking at person who scowls at you or ignores you. You always seek someone out who you have a dialog with. I believe it because the natural human instinct to be friendly and communal becomes independent of all of the normal pressures of socialization in a crowded space, five meters separated, and can function at an optimum level, no hurry, no consequences.
In this gig I didn’t have anybody in front of me save the volcano-man Dietrich so when I wasn’t playing I instinctively turned in my seat and scanned the choir. Staring at the choir is one of my hobbies. The men and women in this choir all had a strong similarity; The men were overwhelmingly a full head shorter than the women and had heavily built arms and shoulders. They were a bit stooped and looked as if they could drag a rock up a hill all day. They all had strong jaws and expressive, resolute features. The women were extremely tall and striking, unanimously blonde and blue eyed. They were a handsome people I thought.
The sheet music, I suspected, was arranged by either Dietrich or the choir conductor. No one would know though because on the top right of the page (Where you usually put Arranged by…) there was just the composer’s name. The pieces were crudely printed on one side of paper, either with pen or using Sibelius software. There were numerous notes from previous users, ranging from helpful explanations of a a Da capo to lurid poetry and expletives. Es ist schönwarm in diesem Saal…
We were playing and singing a piece called “Ubuntu” and it was a massed choir thing. There must have been about three hundred people on the stage. There was a percussion orchestra, made up from kids. They were playing bongos, marimbas and tambourines, then there was a jazz band with drum set, the harpsicordist and us.
Ubuntu, Ubuntu, Ubuntu,
And we praise the lord to-ge-th-er!
People were mixed in how they sang. Most stood bolt upright, staring at the conductor or into their score determinately, the only movement their clenched jaws. These were people who often in my experience were the most extroverted off the stage but on the stage just couldn’t bring themselves to perform and let themselves “lose control”. This was contrasted by the people who were letting the music govern their bodies, and were swaying or clapping, eyes closed. These people were normally introverted and insecure young women. They were the people who were achieving carthasis through performance-being someone else during this mediocre number. It moved me.
The English parts were sung with a heavy German accent. Do they even know the mundane meaning of what they are singing? I have often wondered that. How much English does your average Hinterweidenthaler know? Don’t they have their own songs with so much more cultural value with this fashionable international pap? We might sing this stuff in New Zealand. It’s tragic that choir directors the world wide busy themselves pandering to some asshole music writer in America or Britain, brainwashed.
It certainly was a trip though, watching the three hundred Hinterweidenthalers sing international dross. What the hell is this outpost of ideal Germany doing, singing African songs in English? Is this modern German culture? The need to be diverse is everywhere here!